Those of you who read this blog probably know that I’m giving a paper next week at the 20th annual CHAT conference in Greece. The paper is titled “Survey Archaeology and Modern Greece,” and will be on a panel dedicated to the archaeology of Greece. I’ve posted on this paper here, here, and here.
The paper has received some really incisive feedback from Grace Erny who is my coauthor on it. Dimitri Nakassis pushed me to refine my question more clearly (which I may or may not have done successful).
The paper seeks to present an archaeological counterpoint to a perspective that Michael Herzfeld has recently described as: “Villages appear to represent the first stage in an evolutionist paradigm that fits the Western-inspired vision of the Greek state. In that paradigm, so-called true Greeks originate as members of rural communities. That identity is reinforced even as they urbanize, because electoral laws require them either to register themselves anew in their cities of residence or to accept all the inconvenience of having to travel back to their natal villages every time there is an election—a situation that also furnishes a pretext for family reunions, for the chance to breathe the supposedly pure country air, and, more pragmatically, for a check on their local properties.
I can’t say that this is the FINAL draft, but it’s getting pretty close:
Survey Archaeology and Modern Greece
William Caraher, Grace Erny, Dimitri Nakassis
Paper delivered at the 20th annual CHAT conference.
November 2023
Patras, Greece
Intensive survey projects in the Mediterranean have increasingly revealed a wide range of settlement types, habitations, and activity areas in the countryside. My paper today will consider how intensive survey methods can support a view of rural life in modern Greece that goes beyond the traditional emphasis on the Greek village. To do this, my paper will use examples from the Eastern Korinthia Archaeological Survey which was conducted between 1999-2004 and the Western Argolid Regional Project which ran from 2014-2017.
But, first, a bit of context is necessary. For the purposes of this paper, the modern period in Greece extends from the Greek War of Independence in 1821 to the present. Intensive pedestrian survey refers to the Anglo-American tradition of survey in Greece with its focus on rural areas and its aspiration to document the landscape in a diachronic way. Despite these aspirations, intensive survey projects have generally developed sampling methods designed to detect “hidden landscapes” of ancient and Medieval material.
In its earliest days, intensive survey focused on documenting the phases of high-density scatters — that is sites — in the landscape. Since the 1990s, however, the development of siteless survey has shifted attention away from sites to lower density concentrations (sometimes called “off site” scatters). Survey archaeologists have argued that these low-density scatters may represent more ephemeral practices in the landscape, such as seasonal habitation, comparatively short periods of occupation, or even activities such as manuring that extend well beyond the limits of nucleated settlements. In this way, siteless survey has contributed to a view of the Greek countryside as dynamic and fluid in antiquity and has challenged the notion of rural Greece as a stable and enduring entity.
Villages are highly visible and thoroughly studied manifestations of rural continuity. There is general consensus that the village was the most common form of rural Greek settlement from at least the Medieval period. Fotini Kondyli has recently shown that ethnographic studies of Early Modern Greek villages can productively inform how we understand Byzantine villages, suggesting enduring material, social, and economic connections between the medieval and the modern village although many aspects of the modern village system may date to the 18th century. 20th-century Greek villages were centers of religious and political life. They furnished key venues for commemoration in the form of war memorials and in the early 20th century received new, often ancient, names. After World War II, villages served as nodes for domestic and international investment schemes designed to both modernize rural lifeways and bolster “traditional Greek life and values.” Groups who operated outside of the structure of the village (or the town) such nomadic pastoralists, found themselves periodically forced to settle in a village or at least declare residency in one. After the exchange of population in 1923, the state often settled refugees in purpose-built Greek villages, including Nea Kios in the Argolid, which made it easier to provide services and integrate these new communities into the nation. Movement between villages and from villages to cities and towns, promoted Susan Sutton to ask “what is a village in a nation of migrants?” while at the same time recognizing this type of settlement as the practical, historical, and ideological anchor for the modern state in the countryside.
Intensive survey, however, is ill-suited for the archaeological study of modern villages. The abundance of contemporary and recent material near modern villages and the subsequent blurred lines between systemic and archaeological contexts pose a major challenge for intensive survey’s canonical sampling methods, which are designed to capture faint traces of the past rather than document the hyper abundance of the present. Artifact counts near modern villages can easily exceed 10,000 artifacts per hectare and may include thousands of fragments of modern rooftiles, bricks, synthetic building material, metal, and plastics. The Eastern Korinthia Archaeological Survey quickly abandoned its efforts to document modern material on the busy Isthmus of Corinth after teams started to note “scattered trash” in every survey unit.
Along with these practical concerns, siteless survey, which questions the idea of sites as places of continuity in the landscape, looked at villages with studied skepticism. As a result, survey projects typically abandoned archaeological techniques for documenting the modern period and turned to ethnography, local histories, and documentary data derived from censuses, state economic and agricultural reports, or tax records to document villages.
In contrast to this approach, this paper uses data from the Eastern Korinthia Archaeological Survey and the Western Argolid Regional Project to consider the modern countryside beyond the village in the southeastern Korinthia and the Western Argolid. Our approach to the modern period on these two projects built upon the work of Nick Kardulias with Claudia Chang and Pricilla Murray in the Southern Argolid and his subsequent efforts on Cyprus, various Saronic islands, and in the Eastern Corinthia. Kardulias and colleagues documented sheepfolds, shrines, threshing floors, lime kilns, storehouses, and farmsteads — virtually any modern feature other than villages. This work revealed a “contingent countryside” (or a liquid landscape) that reflected the ebb and flow of seasonal and situational activities in rural space.
Kardulias’s work contributed directly to a study that I conducted with David Pettegrew in the southeastern Korinthia where we documented the rural site of Lakka Skoutara. This site consisted of over a dozen houses situated in a valley and loosely arranged around a rural crossroad and a church. The houses featured baking ovens, large cisterns, and threshing floors. The fields around the houses included massive stone clearance piles and the slopes saw extensive terracing as well as simple rock windbreaks which preserve evidence for pastoralists who operated in the region. Intensive survey around the remains of the settlement at Lakka Skoutara produced a robust and chronologically diverse assemblage of ceramics. Nineteenth-century table wares from Çanakkale in northwestern Turkey and slip-painted ware from Didymoteicho in Thrace appeared alongside less diagnostic unglazed utility wares, modern glazed yoghurt pots, modern flower pots, glass bottles, and metal tableware. The presence of Koroneiko pitharia indicates a substantial investment in ceramic storage vessels. The character and the quantity of material at Lakka Skoutara suggested periods of intensive occupation despite its physical and social proximity to the village of Sophiko.
We also returned to the site regularly over the course of the next two decades. While we did not conduct another intensive survey, we continued to document the use of the houses over time. In some cases, we were able to watch individual structures collapse as their owners removed their tile roofs and exposed their mud mortar walls to rain. One house disappeared entirely as a result of efforts to widen a modern road that passed through the area. Other observations, however, reflected the ongoing value of these rural structures. Objects left in ruined houses appeared one year and were gone or replaced by other objects the next. In one case, a house saw extensive renovation and remodeling. Other homes saw consistent maintenance. The overall picture here was of a modern landscape that continued to play a role in contemporary life of the residents of the nearby villages, while at the same time remaining outside the official state apparatus: the site of Lakka Skoutara does not appear by name on 20th century maps or, as far as we could determine, on censuses.
More recently, Grace Erny, Dimitri Nakassis, and I documented a similar cluster of houses at the site of Chelmis in the Western Argolid. Like at Lakka Skoutara, we conducted intensive survey around the remains of over a dozen largely abandoned buildings which featured threshing floors, ovens, enclosures for animals, and paths. The settlement was founded by seasonal pastoralists who moved their flocks from around the village of Frosiouna to the site of Chelmis near the village of Schinochori in the winter months. At some point during the early 20th century, they also cultivated grain in the area, as the terraces and threshing floors show. It seems likely that the Frousiouniot pastoralists acquired this relatively marginal land during one of the land redistributions of the late 19th or early 20th century. During efforts to reorganize and modernize the countryside in the mid-20th century, Chelmis appears in the 1951 census with 119 people, but then declines by around 50% each decade until registering no inhabitants in 1991. During our time at the settlement in 2016, Chelmis had no permanent residents. By the 1970s, the settlement had a connection to the village of Schinochori via a road, electricity, and the children of Chelmis walking the several miles to attend school in the village. Today, the site appears largely abandoned but for one large, flea infested goat fold, and a few houses maintained as storerooms and seasonal shelters during the olive harvest.
The artifact assemblage around the houses of Chelmis produced a massive quantity of roof tiles, suggesting at least some of the houses were abandoned with their roofs intact. The appearance of several different kind of tiles — one type local and roughly made and the other mass produced and from a regional tile manufacturer — suggested both ad hoc repairs and the reuse of older tiles as wall chinking, in the construction of ovens, and on shed roofs. It also reflects the residents’ engagement with both regional and highly local economic networks which likely varied over time and perhaps became more wide-ranging in the postwar period when Chelmis became linked to the village of Schinochori by road. The scatter of artifacts at the site was sparse with metal and glass objects more common than ceramics. The few ceramics that were present included a Marousi Ware storage jar from Attica and small vessels made of either porcelain or imitation porcelain. A mug made of aluminum and glass bottles suggests that these materials replaced ceramic vessels for daily use. The general absence of table and utility wares at the site, however, may result from the periodic (perhaps initially seasonal) use of the site, the modest material means of its residents, and its relatively short existence as a settlement in the countryside. The residents of Chelmis likely took most high value objects with them when they stopped living there.
Chelmis was accessed via a series of routes that avoided the agricultural fields around the village of Lyrkeia (previously known as Kato Belesi) in the Inachos valley. Lakka Skoutara was connected to neighboring villages by a rugged routes through the hilly interior of the southeastern Corinthia. Even modern bulldozers have only made the routes partly passable for occasional vehicular traffic. The remote location of Lakka Skoutara made it suitable for residents of the village of Sophiko during the Greek Civil War and German Occupation, suggesting that its status at the margins of the modern state served a valuable purpose for local residents. Chelmis’s role as an extension of the mountain village of Frosiouna, with access to only marginally arable land, but nevertheless proximate to schools, markets, and employment opportunities on the Argive plain. For both Chelmis and Lakka Skoutara, the visibility of activity at the site appears shaped by regional, national, and global markets, employment opportunities, services, and routes. Intensive survey in these areas cast valuable lighton activity in the Greek countryside that existed outside the modern structure of the village. The many functions and affordances of these sites, both in the past and in the present, situates modern villages amid a fluid rural landscape.
As a kind of conclusion, I wonder whether greater attention to the traces of modern life in the Greek countryside has the potential to connect the archaeology of modern Greece to Charles Orser’s well-worn “haunts” of historical archaeology: colonialism, Eurocentrism, capitalism, and modernity. The ephemeral traces of life outside the Greek village reminds us that the world of late-modernity and late-capitalism need not necessarily reflect the culmination of the structures developed by the European nation-state with its spatially defined forms of colonialism and capital. Indeed, the history of Greece is laced with fluid populations that existed at the margins of the nation-state and the archaeology of the modern period. Some examples, such as the arrival of the Arvanites in Attica and the northeastern Peloponnesus date to Ottoman times or, in other cases, such as the exchange of populations in 1923 represent the emergence of the modern nation from the ruins of pre-national states. But more recent examples also abound, from the current migrant crisis, to the quiet presence of the Roma and Southeast Asian agricultural workers in today’s Argive plain or the fish farms of the southeastern Corinthia.
Returning to Chelmis, the route from Frosiouna to the settlement may reveal traces of another seasonal “Thousand Year Road,” to use Hal Koster’s term, as it materialized at the intersection with state sponsored land redistribution, electrical networks, and roads. In the Corinthia, the ebb and flow of activity at Lakka Skoutara reflected continued vitality of sites outside the boundaries modern village even amid post-war efforts reified the village as the center of settlement and modern life. Intensive survey’s capacity to document spaces marginal to the influences of the nation, capital, and colonialism reminds us that other narratives, situations, and possibilities exist outside of the site.